The Circus Guide to
When you fly into Berlin one of the things you first notice when you look out of the window are the lakes and forests all around the city. In fact, they are more than just surrounding us… they are part of the city itself. More than a third of the area within Berlin’s city limits are parks, forests, rivers or lakes, which means that one of Europe’s largest cities is a surprising haven for those seeking some fresh air and activity.
Whether you’re a dedicated outdoor athlete or just someone who enjoys a bit of fresh air as part of your daily routine, this all means that Berlin is a great choice for those who want to combine the best of a city break – great museums, restaurants, bars, shopping and nightlife – with a spot of forest bathing, (wild) swimming or not-so-urban exploration.
Of course, the warmer months of the year are perhaps better for those looking for a long run in the park, a hike through the trees or a swim in one of the many lakes, but we think you can get outdoors in any weather… and here are some of our favourite ways to do it…
RUNNING IN THE TIERGARTEN
It’s a classic for a reason. Berlin’s answer to Central Park is where the marathon starts and ends every autumn, and its mix of winding paths, tree-lined avenues and riverside trails make it a popular choice for daily joggers, both locals and visitors alike. You could also combine a run in the Tiergarten with a bit of sightseeing, by heading first to Unter den Linden to pass by the Museum Island, the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag before heading into the park.
The Tiergarten route (12km) is one of a number of running routes we have put together in our very own Circus Jog Map. You’ll find it at the receptions of The Circus Hotel, Hostel and Apartments, or just ask! Beyond the Tiergarten, other popular running spots in the city include Tempelhofer Feld (and the nearby Hasenheide Parkrun on Saturday mornings) or following the river south from Treptower Park station.
See also: Our runners guide to Berlin.
BIKE RIDING THE BERLIN WALL TRAIL
Berlin is a magical place for exploring by bike. There is an extensive network of dedicated bike lanes, with signs showing the way to all the major landmarks and sights. Mountain bikers and road cyclists alike head to the Grunewald forest, where the mix of hilly (for Berlin) roads and forest trails offer a challenge for cyclists of all types.
But we’d like to highlight something unique to Berlin: the combination of history and exploration on two wheels that is the Berlin Wall Trail. Following the old dividing line between East and West for 40km through the city and 120km around the edge, the Mauerweg is a loop that many people like to attempt over two or three days. Of course, you don’t need to do the whole thing: the closest section to The Circus is at Bernauer Straße. Explore the different stages of the trail here.
See also: Our favourite bike trips in Berlin.
SWIMMING AT WANNSEE
When the sun is out, Berliners head to the beach. But with the Baltic Sea a good three hours away by train, it is to the lake that we go. And Berlin has plenty of them. The most famous lake beach is Strandbad Wannsee, with about a kilometre of fine sand, and all the facilities you need to make a day of it, including food and drink options, sun loungers, volleyball and table tennis.
If you are looking for something a little wilder, the nearby Schlachtensee is often a lot quieter than Wannsee. Or head north to Tegeler See, where there are a number of small beaches and coves tucked away between the trees that you can often have entirely to yourself.
See also: Our favourite swimming spots in Berlin.
KAYAKING AT GRIEBNITZSEE & SUP-ING AT SCHLACHTENSEE
If you’d like to get out on the water but would prefer not to get too wet, Berlin’s lakes and rivers are also the perfect place for kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. At Griebnitzsee Station (on the S-Bahn) you can rent kayaks and then paddle past the historic villas that housed the dignitaries to the Potsdam Conference before reaching the famous Spy Bridge that links Berlin and Potsdam.
At Schlachtensee, next to the beer garden, you can rent stand-up paddleboards by the hour and have a fine old time pottering about on the lake. Both kayak and SUP rental is also available at Tegeler See in the north and the Müggelsee in the south.
HIKING THE MÜGGELBERGE
Okay, so the use of the word Berge (mountains) to describe the low-slung hills at Berlin’s southeastern edge is something of a liberty, but when you are in the middle of one of Europe’s flattest regions then it is understandable why, back in the day, those in charge of naming things got a little excited when it comes to Berlin’s highest natural elevation.
But what they lack in majesty, the Müggelberge and their surrounding forests and lakes more than make up for in tranquil beauty. There are well-marked trails through the forests, passing by glacial lakes on the way to the “summit”, with fine views back towards the city and to the countryside beyond. And this being Germany, there are at least two beer gardens within a stroll of the top, to reward your efforts.
CLIMBING AT THE MAGIC MOUNTAIN
For any wannabe Alex Honnolds or stonemasters out there, Berlin is certainly topographically challenged when it comes to outdoor rock climbing – with one quirky exception (more of which below). Most climbers and boulderers in Berlin head to one of the many indoor walls that have sprung up across the city. One of the best, and our neighbours to the north, is the Magic Mountain in Gesundbrunnen, which not only has indoor lead, toprope and bouldering routes, but also outdoor climbing when the weather is good.
On the other side of the railway tracks is Berlin’s strangest climbing location. The north face of the Humboldthain flak tower, built and partially destroyed during World War II, is now under the jurisdiction of the German Alpine Association and members are permitted to climb its concrete walls. As is so often the case in Berlin, the city’s history continues to shape the present in weird and often wonderful ways.
OPEN-AIR BEERS AT THE PRATER GARTEN
And finally: whatever your outdoor pursuit of choice, the perfect way to end your activity is with a beer (alcohol-free or otherwise). Just a short walk from The Circus is the Prater Garten, established almost two hundred years ago and still one of the best beer gardens of the city, where people come together on long tables beneath the chestnut trees for a few pints and a good chat.
Other favourites include the BRLO Brwhouse in Gleisdreieck park – a good spot for a Radler, the beer and lemonade mix named for the cyclists that drink it. BRLO are one of the leading lights of Berlin’s craft beer scene and always have an interesting mix of brews on tap. Another good spot is Cafe am Neuen See, right in the heart of the Tiergarten. But if you run there, might we suggest you take the public transport back?
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If you want even more tips and ideas for things to do, check us out on Instagram. And while you are in Berlin, our lovely team is always on hand with suggestions of their own! Just come and have a chat with us.
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