The Circus Guide to
Where do you go when the weather is fine and you’ve got a long day of sightseeing, shopping or simply soaking up Berlin’s street culture behind you? Exactly. The Biergarten is one of our city’s most cherished traditions, and it has to be said: the typical Berliner grumpiness is softened from the moment the big tables and benches are laid out beneath the chestnut trees as the beer garden season is declared open.
We have beer gardens in our city that date back to the early 19th century, and their longevity is perhaps because they have always been seen as our communal living room during the warmer months. A place to while away a few hours with a couple of beers and a hearty snack. A place to meet friends and perhaps even make some new ones. There are loads to choose from, but here are some of our favourites…
PRATER GARTEN
This was always going to be top of our list. Not only is the Prater Garten the oldest beer garden in the city, dating back to 1837, but it is also the closest to The Circus. A ten-minute walk up the hill from Rosenthaler Platz, the Prater opened when its spot beneath the chestnut trees was outside of the city limits. It has survived the expansion of the city, the first and second unifications of Germany, two World Wars and the division of Berlin, and somehow manages to maintain its timeless appeal.
There is nothing fancy about the Prater. The beer is cold and the food options are pretty good, but what makes it special is the atmosphere. There is something about stepping off the street and walking between the buildings until you reach this oasis of drinks and good times under the trees, where it has always been, for nearly two hundred years.
CAFE AM NEUEN SEE
With its idyllic setting beside a small lake in the heart of the Tiergarten, Berlin’s central park, the Cafe am Neuen See is perhaps the most picturesque outdoor drinking spot in the city centre. Tucked away among the trees, it is hard to imagine you are in the heart of one of Europe’s biggest cities, just a short walk from shops and restaurants, bustling streets and busy train stations.
A few drinks at the Cafe am Neuen See are the perfect end to an exploration of the city’s west end, including the famous Ku’damm shopping street, or a few hours wandering the trails and avenues of the Tiergarten. Other attractions nearby include Berlin’s Zoo, the Philharmonic and the Kulturforum complex of museums and exhibition spaces.
BRLO BRWHOUSE
Our first two picks are Berlin traditions, one from the East and the other from the West. But our next selection is a relative newcomer to the Berlin scene and one of the best places in the city to combine a spot of open-air drinking with the best of craft beer culture. The Brlo Brwhouse itself is made out of repurposed shipping containers at one end of the Gleisdreieck Park, and is a must for anyone interested in the innovative food and drink culture that has developed in Berlin over the past decade.
Instead of the standard pilsners, Brlo offers a range of craft beers brewed on site and which change with the seasons. The food menu is also a step above the normal beer garden fare, with a focus on locally-sourced ingredients, sharing plates and dishes developed to pair with the beers on offer.
ZENNER
A mix of the old and the new in Treptower Park at the Zenner, a historic beer garden beside the Spree river that has been recently redeveloped and reopened as a cultural and event space for concerts and club nights while maintaining the traditional beer and wine garden with a bit of contemporary flair.
Throughout the summer there is a programme of events within the garden, including DJ sets, live music, art performances, readings and more. You can combine a visit with a boat trip on the river, leaving from the docks just outside Treptower Park S-Bahn station, or a visit to the monumental Soviet war memorial that was built in the aftermath of the Second World War.
LORETTA AM WANNSEE
Our final pick comes from the edge of the city, down in the district of Wannsee where the forests and lakes are perfect for hiking and swimming, and yet are just a comfortable S-Bahn ride away from the city centre. Here you will find Strandbad Wannsee, Berlin’s most famous beach, as well as places to rent kayaks and stand-up-paddleboards and walking trails between the woods and the water.
The Loretta is close to the S-Bahn station and occupies a shady terrace with a view across the water. Sip your beers while watching the sailing boats criss-cross the lake or the sun set as it falls beyond the forest on the opposite shore. Beyond the outdoors, Wannsee is also visited for the Max Liebermann Villa, celebrating the life and work of the artist in what was his summer residence, and the exhibition of the House of the Wannsee Conference, the location where leading members of the Nazi Party planned the Holocaust.
GOOD TO KNOW
In most beer gardens, the scene is pretty relaxed and it is not uncommon to share a table with others, especially if you are only a small group. Most beer gardens are self-service, and you will often pay a deposit (Pfand) on the glasses, so make sure you return them to get your money back!
Berlin’s everyday beer is Pilsner, crisp and clean, with local brews including Berliner Pilsner and Schultheiss. A local specialty is Berliner Weisse, a sour beer that is mixed with raspberry (red) or woodruff (green) syrup… order it as “eine Rote” or “eine Grüne”. If you want something light, a Radler or an Alster is a mix of beer and lemonade, perfect for hot days.
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